The availability of components for sliding door systems and their variety allows you to make do-it-yourself wardrobe doors. This implies the presence of a special tool, general knowledge and skills, as well as desire and patience, since the process requires accurate calculations and accuracy of execution.
Required tool Before proceeding with the manufacture and installation of the doors of the wardrobe compartment with your own hands, you should make sure that you have all the necessary accessories and tools: a hand saw for metal or an electric jigsaw with an appropriate blade for cutting a profile and guides; a hand or circular saw for cutting MDF or Chipboard; a drill with a drill for metal or a drilling machine to create holes; screwdriver, screwdrivers, hexagons and cue balls; tape measure, square, level, plumb; In addition, it is necessary to take into account the material of the surfaces on which the guides will be installed. You may need a hammer drill or multifunctional drill, drills and drills, the necessary fasteners (dowels and screws).
Calculations In order for the doors of the sliding wardrobe after installation with their own hands to fully meet all the requirements and perform their functions, it is necessary to carry out accurate calculations of the size of the inserts. Before proceeding with them, you need to choose the fittings used, since guides, profiles, frames and stops can vary in thickness.
When calculating the height of moving elements, the total width and height should include the thickness of the type of profile used, the thickness of the peg, the number and type of inserts. To know exactly how wide the door leaf will be, you need to divide the total width of the opening by the number of leaves, take into account the width of the framing profile and the sealing element ...
Door installation After everything you need is purchased and prepared, accurate measurements have been made, you can proceed to the installation process itself. The sequence can be conditionally divided into stages: installation of the upper and lower guides, assembly of the door leaf frame, insertion of filler, hanging of the finished door.
Holes for self-tapping screws are drilled in the upper and lower guides, which are pre-cut to the desired size. First, fix the upper part, while using dowels. Then, using a plumb line, the location of the lower part is precisely verified, and it is also fixed.
The next step is to assemble the frame. .
To begin with, cut the handle profiles and the horizontal profile. All cut lines must be made at even right angles, opposite parts must be the same size. In order to make sure that the calculations are accurate, you can spread the cut elements on the floor and see what the result is.
Then the mounting holes with a diameter of 5 mm are drilled. and a hole for an adjusting screw with a diameter of 10 mm. It is necessary to adhere to the distance of the indent from the edge to the center of 7.5 mm., There should be a distance of 34 mm between the centers of the holes.
Next, proceed to the assembly of the frame using the mounting screw and hex key. It must be remembered that a roller must be inserted under the upper screw before the final tightening. The result should be a perfect rectangular design with no gaps or curvatures. Then the lower rollers are installed, while you need to turn the spring plate to the center of the web, and fix it with a screw.
At the end, you need to insert the selected filler into the finished frame. A canvas made of MDF and chipboard does not require additional assembly elements; when using mirrors, you need to use a silicone profile worn around the entire perimeter. The fastening screws are slightly loosened so that the door can be inserted into the grooves, then they are tightened again. When hanging the doors, first insert the upper rollers, then press the lower ones, put the door in place, and release the roller. Thanks to the spring mechanism, it fits snugly into the groove, preventing it from jumping out of it.
How to make compartment doors with your own hands?
In modern houses and apartments, more and more often, instead of not very convenient swing structures, sliding doors have been installed. They allow you to rationally use the space of the room, enliven the interior, and are also the most suitable option for people with disabilities. In addition, they can be installed not only in the doorway, but also in any niche. You can do this with your own hands, thus saving a significant amount, the main thing is to find time, materials and tools for such a useful and exciting process.
A compartment door, like any other design, consists of special elements. In order to install it, you need to purchase accessories. The choice of the necessary parts depends on the type of sliding system and the type of door leaf. The door leaf can be solid and consist of one material, or it can consist of several materials. Regardless of the materials used, any prefabricated leaf (sash) consists of profiles of different size and purpose. The frame has an upper, lower, two lateral and intermediate (the number depends on the component parts) profiles.
The upper horizontal profile consists of two slots. The lower part of the groove holds the material, and the upper one with a round groove is designed for screwing in a self-tapping screw that holds the vertical profile of the door. The lower horizontal profile, like the upper one, consists of two grooves, but its lower part has longer side walls designed to hide the rollers.
The horizontal intermediate profile consists of two identical grooves. It is used as a link between materials. Vertical profiles not only perform a supporting function and have a special groove to support the material, but also are required to drive the sash. This element is made in the form of a handle and has various modifications.
To drive the sash, you need a set of guides and rollers. To maintain the direction of movement of the sash, a pair of asymmetric rollers are used, installed in the upper part of the sash and located at different ends of the frame. A pair of rollers is installed in the lower part in the same way. They are the main driving force, they account for the weight of all the materials used.
Sash movement is impossible without guides. As a rule, there are two of them in a set: an upper and a lower one. They differ in form and purpose. The structure of the upper profile depends on the type of system. If an upper supporting sliding system is used, then a closed profile consisting of one groove is used. But most often, a coupe door is used to install lower support system and therefore the shape of the profile has a slightly different look.
It consists of two grooves of the same shape and depth. Thanks to him, the door moves in a given direction. The lower guide is designed for the movement of the rollers and is a profile consisting of 3 grooves. Each pair of rollers has its own groove (narrow). The middle wide groove serves as a separating function.
In order to prevent the door from leaving when driving outside, stoppers are used. Their shape depends on the type of sliding system. These elements are installed in the guides.
There are different types of materials used in the manufacture of sliding doors. For panel types of doors, consisting of a whole sheet, one material is used. For composite (paneled), as a rule, several types of materials are used, which are placed in a frame of a certain shape. The cheapest and most affordable material is chipboard. It can be used to make a whole canvas or a frame for other materials.
Doors with chipboard details are not very suitable for installation in a children's room , since the composition contains resins that can harm health due to their volatility. Do not forget that chipboard is essentially pressed sawdust, so the edge of this material needs to be closed. Most often, chipboard is lined with PVC film or veneer.
A safer material is MDF Since no resins are used in its production, wood particles are combined thanks to paraffin or lignin. It can be used to make canvases with curly contours. Thanks to this property, it can be used both as a whole canvas and as a constituent element of a curly frame.
Door leaves are often made from solid wood. This material is expensive and requires special skill in work. It is used as a whole canvas, and can also be used as a frame or individual panels with curly edges.
A good alternative to solid wood can be a material such as plywood. It is obtained by gluing veneer sheets, and for strength during gluing, they are laid in a special way, the fibers of one sheet lie perpendicular to the fibers of the other sheet. The surface of plywood door panels is most often laminated, giving the desired color and structure to natural wood.
In contrast to wood, plywood is easier to use and is much cheaper than solid wood. Recently, a material such as polycarbonate has been used as a door leaf. Lightweight and durable polycarbonate sheets can be used as an insert in combination with other materials and as a separate sheet. This material, in order to avoid the disappearance of transparency, it is recommended to cover with profiles on all sides. It is a good alternative to glass.
Very often, a mirror and glass are used as a door leaf. The mirrored surface of the doors helps to visually expand the space of the room.
It perfectly reflects both natural and artificial light, so that the darkest corners of the room are always lit. Mirror and glass, as a rule, are fixed on all sides with profiles. Both materials work well with each other.
How to calculate the dimensions yourself?
In order to make do-it-yourself compartment doors, you will need to take measurements. The width and height of the doors depends on the size of the opening in which they will be installed. The value of the optimal door width is in the range of 60-90 cm. It is possible to make doors with different widths, there is a small spread, which is in the range of 50-110 cm.
When making a door leaf, it is better to adhere to the specified limit, and there are reasons for this. Width less than 50 cm will have a negative effect on the movement of the door leaf , misalignment and even falling out of the grooves is possible. An interior door with a width of 110 cm or more is very difficult to move, so this width is not used.
To calculate the required sash width, if you plan to install two sashes, you need to measure the opening and add the profile width to the resulting value, and then divide this number by the number of sashes, that is, by 2. For a specific example, it looks like this. The opening width is 1800 mm, and the width of the profile that will be used as a handle is 24 mm. We calculate: 1800 + 24/2 = 912 mm.
The width of the profile and the opening is chosen arbitrarily; when calculating, you should rely on your measurements and the width of the profile you have chosen. If you plan to install three sashes in the opening, then the calculation of the width is done a little differently. The width of the profile must be added to the width of the opening, multiplied by 2 and the resulting value must be divided by 3. As a specific example, we take the same width of the opening and profile: 1800 + 24 * 2/3 = 616 mm.
The sash height can be calculated as follows. We measure the height of the opening and subtract 40-45 mm from the obtained value. The length of the side profiles is equal to the height of the flaps. The length of the horizontal profiles depends on the handles purchased, located on each side of the sash, or rather on their width. To calculate the length of the profiles, you need to subtract twice the width of the handle from the width of the sash, the resulting value is the length of the horizontally located profile.
Now you can start calculating the fill width. In order to make the calculations clearer, you can use the obtained values. The correct filling width is calculated as follows: 912 (616) -24 * 2 = 864 (568) mm. Subtract the doubled profile width from the sash width (handles are installed on both sides of the sash).
We calculate the height of the sash in the same way, namely, from the value of the height we subtract the width of the upper and then the lower profile, and as a result we get the required number. This height calculation is suitable if the canvas is solid, which does not require seals. If seals are used, then the doubled width of the seal is subtracted from the obtained value, since it is located both at the top and bottom of the canvas.
As a rule, a silicone rubber is used as a seal, its thickness is 1 mm, and the doubled value, respectively, is 2 mm. This calculation can be visualized as follows: height 2500-10-38-2 = 2450 mm. Where 10 is the width of the upper profile and 38 is the width of the lower profile.
If the door is manufactured from component parts, the thickness of the intermediate profile must be taken into account. How many profiles - so many values have to be taken into account.
How to do it yourself at home?
Making compartment doors with your own hands is a rather laborious process, but nothing is impossible, the main thing is to take into account some details.
Rectangular sliding doors
First of all, you need to decide on the filling of the door. The easiest way is to work with chipboard panels and plywood, but you can also choose a solid wood, an MDF board (preferably with an untreated surface). It is easier to buy a ready-made canvas of the required size, but you can do it yourself. To do this, it is necessary to prepare the tools that will be required in the future when installing the assembled structure and some additional materials.
You will need: drill, end saw, sander or sandpaper, special surface coating film and varnish (for wood).
First, the prepared material is cut to the required size, and the ends are sanded. The MDF board is coated with a film or veneer. Then holes for the handles are cut out in it, as well as the attachment points for the roller mechanism are prepared. The surface is cleaned from dust contamination. The wooden sheet is treated with an impregnation that prevents decay processes, and then covered with a layer of varnish.
To lighten the door leaf, you can cut holes in the workpiece in the form of a rectangle or square. Insert a suitable size blank of glass, mirror or lighter plywood into them. First, a figure is drawn on the canvas, and then the middle is cut out with a jigsaw. This must be done carefully, starting from the corner of the marked figure.
The ends of the hole formed are processed with a special tape, which is fixed to the material with an iron. The selected inserts are held in place with a glazing bead. It is possible to assemble a door leaf from profiles and different materials. It is necessary to purchase ready-made profiles and materials for insertion, which are assembled in a specific order.
All profiles are cut according to pre-calculated dimensions strictly at an angle of 90C.
Through-holes must be made in vertical handle profiles. In the upper part, to secure the upper roller, 2 holes are drilled, stepping back from the edge 7 mm, the diameter of one is greater than the diameter of the other.
This is done so that the self-tapping screw easily passes through the larger hole and is fixed at the bottom. Then 4 holes are drilled. The first pair of holes is made after an offset of 7 mm, and the second after an offset from the edge of 42 mm. Now you can start assembling all the fillings. On glass and mirror inserts along the perimeter, a silicone seal is put on without overlap. For safety, you need to stick a film on the back of the mirrors. The prepared component parts are inserted into the profiles.
For a firm grip of the material, a rubber mallet is used when connecting the inserts with the profiles. We attach vertical profiles-handles to the assembled canvas and tighten the structure with fasteners. First, we twist it in the upper part, for this we take the roller and fix it with a screw in the vertical profile.
In the lower part, we first fix the profile through the far hole, twisting it all the way, and then attach the lower rollers to the profile. To do this, insert a plate with a roller inside the lower profile and move it to the vertical post.
There is a hole in the roller plate, it must be aligned with the hole in the vertical profile and screwed in with a hexagon, while pressing the roller. The door leaf is ready for installation.
Radial sliding doors
Radius sliding doors are much more difficult to manufacture than regular rectangular doors. Unlike conventional doors, they have rounded corners. The canvas can be of various shapes and curvatures. An aluminum profile is used for movement on the surface. Door leaves can be made of tempered glass, plastic and other materials. It will not work to make such a canvas at home, so it is better to order ready-made doors and all accessories for them.
Sliding doors can be installed anywhere. Most often, they are used to equip a dressing room. It must be remembered that the installation of the structure must be carried out after repair. After collecting the door leaves, you can install the guides. You need to start with the top guide. As a rule, it is attached to a foundation beam or directly to the ceiling. The guide should be located at a distance of at least 10 cm from the shelves.
A laser level or plumb line is required to install the lower guide, but you can do without them. We lay the lower profile on the surface without fixing and start the door leaf first in the upper guide, and then in the lower profile, having previously installed stoppers in it. Having fixed the blade in a strictly vertical position, the lower profile can be screwed on. Now you can insert the second blade. On both doors we glue a strip in the side parts to soften the impacts. The doors are ready to go.
In the partition
Sliding doors are a universal option and therefore they can be installed even in a plasterboard wall, but first you need to carry out preparatory work. First you need to install a metal frame, having calculated all the dimensions. The metal structure must be from double uprights. Then the guides are installed. We attach the upper guide to the timber, and attach it to the structure above the opening. The lower compartment rail is attached to the floor.
After that, you need to sheathe the frame with sheets of drywall and lay the flooring, only after that you should install the doors. Sliding doors are often installed in homemade cabinets built into a niche. Such cabinets are a real find for small apartments. In addition, the internal content of such a cabinet can be arranged at your own discretion.
Sliding doors are an excellent solution not only for living rooms and built-in wardrobes, but also for a bathroom. With their help, you can separate the bathroom from other rooms without loss of space. In a bathroom, combined with a bathroom, they separate one zone from another. Moreover, such doors are used instead of curtains. As a rule, frosted glass is used as a material.
Sliding doors are in demand in studio apartments, as they do an excellent job of separating one zone from another. Very often they are installed for the kitchen. With their help, you can easily hide kitchen utensils when guests arrive. You can install both furniture options and canvases made of glass, mirrors and plastic.
See below for more details.
Making compartment doors with your own hands at home is difficult, but possible. To do this, it is necessary to understand the operation of mechanisms, know the structure of the structure, carefully take measurements and perform all the necessary actions. If you have carpentry skills, you can independently not only install, but also make compartment doors.
Advantages and disadvantages
The advantages of the design include:
- Saving space. The compartment doors move along the wall, so they do not take up free space, like swing models.
- The possibility of dividing the room into 2 zones.
- Easy to operate.
- There is no threshold. Important for people with knee pain.
- the presence of gaps between the canvas and the wall;
- poorly protect the room from extraneous noise;
- installation requires high precision;
- it is difficult to put a double-leaf structure on your own.
To make compartment doors with your own hands, you need to do the following:
- Perform preliminary measurements. All data must be accurate, as the design provides for an accurate fit, otherwise the mechanism may jam during movement.
- Prepare tools and materials.
- Make linen and loot.
- Prepare the opening in which the structure will be installed.
- Assemble the door and install it.
- Adjust the design.
Making compartment doors at home provides for preliminary measurements. To determine the dimensions of the opening yourself, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the wall and ceiling, floor; electrical appliances are not used in this case, only a tape measure. The design provides that the partition should exceed the opening by 5-7 cm in width. If the number of canvases is 2, each one should be 2-3 cm wider than the opening.
The standard dimensions of the width and height of the opening are 0.6-1.8 m and 1.9-2.2 m, respectively. The opening is measured in 3 places: top, bottom and middle. This is due to the unevenness of the walls. Changes in dimensions are taken into account if it is planned:
- decorative wall covering, etc.
In order for the design of the compartment doors to be correct, it is necessary to subtract the size of the coating from the data obtained or add it if the opening increases. Then the thickness of the walls is measured. If the walls are wider than 10 cm, an additional element is installed. This is a wooden plank that makes the patch wider.
If the cassette installation method is used deep into the wall, dismantle part of the partition and erect a plasterboard box.
Tools and materials
Do-it-yourself installation of interior compartment doors is performed with the following tools:
- hacksaw for metal;
- self-tapping screws for fastening.
Tools required to make the box and the canvas itself:
- a circular saw;
- hammer, chisels, plane, screwdrivers;
- electric drill;
- construction plumb line;
- sandpaper or sander.
You will need the following materials and spare parts:
- Canvas. The material determines the weight of the structure, which affects the choice of fasteners and accessories. It is made of laminated chipboard with a thickness of at least 16 mm. Depending on the features, the canvas should be above or below the opening. If it is planned to be installed on 2 rails, the door is chosen so that in the open state it is slightly larger than the opening, and in the closed state it is just as much smaller.
- Metal rail.
- Wooden beam 50x50 mm. Its length should be equal to the prepared rail.
- Rollers and fasteners for them. The mechanism must withstand the weight of the blade.
- Self-tapping screws and decorative nails.
How to make a compartment door with your own hands?
Before you make a compartment door with your own hands, you need to make sure that the surface on which the installation will be carried out is flat. Otherwise, the installation may be complicated, because the structure will not open and close. The screed must be of high quality and level.
According to the manufacturing manual, the guides are first mounted. The top and bottom rails should be installed exactly in length and strictly parallel to each other and to the surface. Therefore, during installation, it is necessary to use a plumb line or a level of the desired length. To make the guides look presentable, they should be made of the same length and placed strictly opposite each other.
When a compartment door is made with your own hands, step-by-step instructions play an important role. The next step is to make a canvas. To do this, cut a flap of the required size from a chipboard sheet. After completing the marking, a sheet of the required size is cut out. Along the perimeter, the canvas is edged with an aluminum profile. This gives additional rigidity and strength to the structure. The next video is mounted. The last to be installed are handles and locks.
To install an interior door partition, the following materials are required:
- threaded suspension;
- nuts and locknuts;
The rails are mounted in a recess in the floor to avoid thresholds. The upper rail is installed in the board, in which a groove is previously made. The upper rail is mounted on a wooden beam, which is anchored to the wall.
How to make a door frame correctly?
You can make a box from the blanks of the previous loot. Cut off all protruding elements with a grinder, then fill with MDF or a wooden strip to align the fold on the box. The next step is to cut out the required width and length of the additional strips. Their installation will improve the appearance of the opening. The last is the fastening of the platbands.
Making a canvas
For example, the size of the canvas 180 cm wide will be considered.If 2 doors are planned, the length is divided in half. When each half is installed on different rails, the width of the leaf is increased by 10 cm (5 cm for each leaf). This is necessary to overlap one half of the door with the other.
To make the doors of the compartment stronger and more rigid, a metal profile is installed at the ends of the leaf. The next video is mounted. At a distance of 10 cm from the lower edge of the blade, a recess is made using chisels or a milling machine. A roller system is installed in the finished landing groove and fixed with self-tapping screws. Adjust the mechanism after the door is installed in the opening.
To make handles, a recess is cut out in the canvas. The groove is made at a distance of 3-5 cm from the edge of the door, drawing a vertical line with a pencil using a building angle. A wood is chosen with a chisel or a cutter, and the edges are rounded off with a drill-crown. Everything should be done carefully so as not to damage the canvas. A hole of the required diameter is drilled under the fastening pin. After the preparatory work, the handles are installed and connected with a bolt on both sides.
How to install compartment doors?
Installation of compartment doors involves the following steps:
- installation of the rail on which the canvas will walk;
- making a box;
- installation of the canvas;
- adjustment of mechanisms.
A set of tools that the installation cannot do without:
- chisel or milling machine;
- screws, nails and other fasteners.
It is best to purchase high-quality fittings so that there are no problems with adjustment.
Preparing for installation
Do-it-yourself installation of a compartment door is preceded by preparatory work. If a different structure was previously installed in the opening, you should clean the tray from protruding elements and check the evenness of the floor. The latter condition is extremely important for the correct operation of the structure. Otherwise, the blade will not slide freely along the guides. To prevent the nut from protruding, a recess is made in the floor. A guide is installed in it.
Installation of guides
Depending on the design features, the installation of the compartment door provides for 1 or 2 tracks in the lower rail. To prevent the door from going beyond the guide, a stopper is installed. It is a plate with curved edges.
It is important to achieve parallelism and symmetry in the position of both guides. For this purpose, a plumb line is used to determine the vertical accuracy, and for the horizontal - the building level. The dimensions of the rails must be consistent with each other in order to provide a presentable appearance of the structure.
In order for the door structures to open the room quietly, a rubber seal is installed. When the rails are fixed, rollers are brought into them. If necessary, the doors are adjusted so that they slide smoothly along the guides. It is important to eliminate all distortions and irregularities, otherwise the fittings will quickly become unusable.
Hanging the canvas
After installing the guides, they proceed to the collection of compartment doors. The canvas is wound into each rail in turn. If the design provides only one guide, the canvas should be hung on the rail and fixed. When the tracks are 2, the doors are installed first, and then they are adjusted.
The canvas is led into the guides through the side holes. The upper rollers are installed first, then the canvas is raised, and the lower ones are inserted into the corresponding rail. After that, the stopper is screwed on. Finally, the masking box is mounted on glue or with decorative nails.
How to install an interior structure?
Installation of an interior compartment door is often carried out in place of old swing structures. In this case, you do not need to disassemble anything. It is only necessary to remove all protruding elements, and the rest will be hidden by the camouflage box.
The exception is the cassette view, when the canvas is hidden in the wall. In this case, it is necessary to dismantle not only the loot, but also part of the wall. The partition is made of plasterboard to provide a niche for the canvas.
Do-it-yourself installation of interior compartment doors involves all the same steps that were discussed in detail earlier:
- preparatory work;
- installation of guides;
- door leaf installation;
- adjustment of the roller system and closer;
- fastening platbands.
How to adjust?
Adjustment of the door fastening is carried out after installing the curtain. To do this, the door is tightly brought to the end of the opening and see if there is a gap. If it is at the bottom, the blade should be raised. When the gap is at the top, the structure is lowered. This is done by adjusting the lower roller. Most mechanisms have a special screw that allows you to raise or lower the door leaf. There must be no gaps between the door and the door. Both rollers can be adjusted.
The sliding wardrobe is convenient, since the doors do not take up much space when open. In general, it can be made frameless - in a niche, from wall to wall. All that is needed in this case is to install the doors for the wardrobe, and then collect the filling (or vice versa, this is not so important.
Wardrobe doors: recommended sizes
If we talk about strict restrictions on the size of doors for a wardrobe, then there are none. You can make any length and width. But there are recommended parameters determined based on operating experience:
- The minimum width is 50 cm. Nothing prevents you from making the canvas narrower, but when moving it will skew, as a result it may even jump out of the guides.
- The maximum sash width is 110 cm. At the same time, considerable efforts have to be made in order to move it.
- The optimal width is 60-90 cm.
- Profiles come from the factory with a height of 5.5 m, and in stores they are usually cut in half. So there is a real opportunity to make doors for the wardrobe of the required height. At high heights, you only need to pay attention to the stiffness of the handle profile.
- The number of sliding doors is selected based on the optimum width. Choose them so that they do not block access to the filling of the cabinet.
There are almost no size restrictions
Sliding wardrobe door leaf consists of profiles:
The lower profile has deeper sidewalls
Upper profile for sliding door leaf
- profile handles;
The handle can stand on both sides
These profiles are placed between parts of the door leaf, but you can do without them - if the door is one-piece, and not composite
All this together looks like in the photo. In this frame, in the grooves, the material of your choice for the doors is inserted. It can be glass, mirror, chipboard and other materials.
Sash construction without filling
Dividing profiles are optional. They are needed if the sashes are assembled from different materials or you simply like them in this form. The maximum thickness of the filling material is 10 mm, the minimum is 4 mm. Thinner ones - glass, plastic, mirror - are inserted through the sealing gasket.
In order for the sash to be able to move, rollers are installed on it - above and below. The lower rollers account for the entire mass of the door, and the upper rollers stabilize the vertical position of the web, preventing it from deviating.
Rollers for sliding wardrobe doors
The rollers are attached to the side profiles with special fasteners.
Slides for sliding doors
As you can imagine, the sash is not everything. Guides are needed along which these very doors will move. There are two of them - upper and lower. They are significantly different in appearance.
Top guide for wardrobe door
The bottom rail is made of metal
When installing the doors, first they are tightly inserted into the upper guide, raise the sash to the stop and put the lower rollers in the corresponding slot. The whole structure is shown in the following photo.
When self-assembling a door for a wardrobe, there are two options. The first is to measure the opening, think over how many doors you want and contact the door manufacturer with this information. Just make sure they sell the parts for free. The manager himself will calculate all the necessary materials for you, give out the dimensions and announce the amount. It's simple. But you will have to buy everything in this office, i.e. choose from what is.
The second way is to calculate everything yourself and look for the necessary components for different companies. More difficult and more expensive, but the choice is wider. For those who do not like simple ways, we will describe the calculation of components.
Calculate the width of the sashes so that only one handle is visible when closed, but at the same time it should not close the door leaf itself. For a sliding door with two leaves, count as follows: measure the width of the opening, add the width of the profile and divide it in half. This will be the width of the sash.
For example, the opening is 1600 mm, the width of the handle profile is 26 mm. We get 1600 mm + 23 mm / 2 = 811.5 mm. Please note that the width of the handle profile is arbitrary. It can be different in shape and, of course, in width. When calculating, substitute the width of the structure you have chosen.
Profiles can be different, therefore they must be measured individually
To calculate a tricuspid, you will need to add twice the profile width and divide by 3.
Example: the opening is 2100 mm, the width of the handle is the same - 26 mm. We consider: 2100 mm + 2 * 26 mm / 3 = 717 mm.
With height, everything is easier. 40-45 mm are subtracted from the cabinet height and the desired sash height is obtained, as well as the length of the side profiles. That's it with the size of the valves.
Since the filling is in a frame of profiles, we subtract twice the width of the profile from the total width of the sash. We do the same with the height - we subtract the height of the lower and upper profiles.
Measuring the width of profiles
So, the width of our sash is 811.5 mm. The measured width of the handle profile is 18 mm. Since the handles are placed on both sides, we double this figure. We get 36 mm. Total filling width 811.5 mm - 36 mm = 775.5 mm.
We also consider the height: let the original be 2350 mm, the width of the upper profile is 12 mm, and the lower one is 48 mm. Total filling height 2350 mm - 12 mm - 48 mm = 2290 mm. This is if the filling is solid and it is chipboard that does not require a silicone seal. If the sash is a solid mirror or glass, the thickness of the sealing gum must be subtracted from the found height. It is 1 mm, but since it is worn around the perimeter, in general - from above and below - it takes 2 mm. In this case, the filling height is 2290 mm - 2 mm = 2288 mm.
If the sash infill consists of fragments, the thickness of the connecting profile is also subtracted. It is also approximately 1 mm.
The height of the vertical frame profiles is equal to the overall height of the sash. The width of all horizontal ones is calculated depending on the width of the handle: we subtract twice the width of the handle from the width of the sash (there are two of them).
How to measure the width of the handle
Let the handle width be 26 mm. We get the width of the vertical profiles: 811.5 mm - 26 mm * 2 = 759.2 mm.
Photo report on the assembly
First, all profiles are cut exactly to the calculated dimensions. Accuracy must be perfect. Cut - strictly perpendicular, at 90 °. Holes are drilled in the handle profiles for the installation of rollers and fasteners.
The holes are made through two diameters. The exact size depends on the dimensions of the purchased fasteners, but basically there are two sizes: 4 mm and 6 mm, as well as 6 mm and 10 mm.
How to drill holes
One such hole is made at the top, the center of which is located at a distance of 7 mm from the edge of the profile, at the bottom of the holes there are two - the first at a distance of 7 mm from the edge, the second - departing from the cut of the profile 42 mm.
Holes at the bottom of the side profiles
During assembly, all parts of the filling are assembled first. First, if there is glass or a mirror, a sealing rubber is installed around the perimeter. It is simply put on the end of the part by pressing the finger. At the edges, the seal is cut off, put on end-to-end, but without overlap on the next side.
Seal on the mirror
A protective film is glued to the back of the mirrors. You can use regular self-adhesive. This film will keep the debris from falling apart if the mirror breaks.
If the sash is composite, we assemble it using connecting profiles. The filling parts are simply pushed into the profile. Sometimes it can take a lot of effort. You can tap on the end with the back of your hand or use a rubber mallet for this.
Just insert the filling parts into the grooves of the profile and tap on the butt
When the sash is assembled, according to the same principle, the corresponding profiles are installed at the top and bottom.
Top profile installed
Then it is time to install the side handle profiles. Everything is the same: you drive the filling into the groove, make sure that it fits all the way along the entire length without distortions. When the frame is assembled, it is necessary to tighten it with fasteners. We start from the top. Take the fasteners, insert them into the previously drilled hole. If the distance is accurately measured, the screw will fit into the groove of the head rail.
If drilled correctly
We tighten the connection with a hex key. Without slightly tightening it all the way, we insert the upper rollers between the screw head and the profile jumper, then we tighten the screw.
Insert the upper rollers
We repeat the same operation on the other side. Then we go down. Here the fasteners are installed in the upper hole. Just tighten it all the way. Repeat the same on the other side.
Installing fasteners from below
Next, install the lower rollers. We put the thrust plate into the groove, press it.
Installation of the lower roller - we put the plate into the profile
We squeeze the spring, tucking the roller body inward. We insert a screw into the hole, trying to get into the socket, tighten it with a hexagon. It may need a different size - slightly smaller than the others - as this screw is usually thinner and longer.
We tightened the roller, inserted the screw
You do not need to tighten it all the way. So that it goes into the plate for half a centimeter or so. Then, when installing the door and adjusting its movement, this screw adjusts the position of the sash - the angle is raised or lowered.
We tighten the screw that fixes the roller
If you press the roller wheel, it will go into the body, then return due to the elasticity of the spring. This simple mechanism ensures the smooth movement of the door for the wardrobe.
Having collected all the doors, we proceed to the installation of the guides. They should be located strictly one below the other, even without deviations in a millimeter. Use a plumb bob or a laser level (read how to use a laser level here).
First, screw on the top guide. It is mounted either to the ceiling or to the top of the cabinet. The distance from the shelves is at least 100 mm, otherwise the doors will touch the shelves, things, and hangers.
We fasten the top guide
Insert the bump springs into the bottom guide from the sides into the grooves. They will restrict the movement of the door. The number of springs is equal to the number of leaves, they are installed at both ends.
Stoppers for doors
Insert the travel stop springs
If there is no laser level, so as not to suffer with plumb lines, for a start, you can simply lay the lower guide, not fixing it yet. Then install one blade, putting its upper rollers at the top, and setting the lower ones in the desired groove. This will link the doors to the top and bottom rails.
With the sash vertical, automatically set the lower guide
By placing the canvas strictly vertically, you will automatically expose the lower guide. It only remains to screw it on. Just be careful not to move the doors.
The last thing to do is to glue the schlegel on the sides. This is a fleecy self-adhesive strip that softens the impact of the sash on the cabinet walls (or just on the walls, if the cabinet is open-frame).
The final touch - the Schlegel sticker
On this, the doors for the wardrobe compartment are installed and ready to go. You can watch the process again in the video.
To make a compartment door with your own hands, you need drawings, a description of the work plan and step-by-step instructions, because this is a rather non-trivial task, especially for a beginner. At the same time, installing a sliding door is an opportunity to save space, which is especially important with a limited room area. In this way, you can still zone the room, without having to build strong floors. You can even make such a structure with your own hands, using new materials or an old canvas - you just have to purchase a special mechanism and accessories for it. Today we will dwell on this type of work in detail.
Do-it-yourself sliding door
How do sliding systems work?
The compartment door is designed in such a way that its doors move apart on the sides. It can be either one or two door leaves moving parallel to the ceiling or sliding inward. And if the general principle of operation for such doors is the same, then the methods of installation and opening are different. Let's talk about this in more detail.
Table # 1. The main types of sliding systems.
|Mounted||In this case, the canvas is fixed on the guides - on the ceiling or directly above the opening. So the doors will move along the wall with a slight offset from it. It is not recommended to install furniture or any other objects near the door - they will be an obstacle to the door leaves.|
|Suspended||In this case, the door leaf is fixed to the cut of the opening. Accordingly, the door moves close to the wall, which looks more neat and aesthetically pleasing. Hanging doors allow you to place pieces of furniture next to the opening - they will not interfere.|
Table 2. Varieties of interior sliding doors by opening method
|This is the most primitive version of sliding doors, so even an inexperienced person can handle the manufacture of such a model. The design can be either with one canvas or with two.|
|The movement of the blade does not take place along a flat guide, but along a circle. This option is ideal for rooms with curved ceilings, good for corner cabinets. The design has a very original look, but not everyone can handle it.|
|They also come with one or two doors and move in different directions according to the same principle as compartment doors. The difference is that they slide into special recesses in the wall, which makes this structure very convenient, because furniture can be placed near the wall without any problems. Of course, making such a door will be a little more difficult, because you will have to provide for the presence of a niche in the ceiling.|
|The design is arranged in such a way that a separate guide is fixed for each blade. Such doors are often installed as interior partitions and for decoration. They can be assembled in a single part of the opening - it is enough to pull one canvas by the edge, and the others will follow it. Of course, this is also a rather complex system, the same as the radius, so it is not easy to make it.|
|The canvases are fixed in the opening and move towards each other. The design assumes the ability to open only one half of the opening. Nevertheless, various objects can be placed against the walls, which will definitely not interfere with the opening of the doors.|
|This is a very simple hinged door design. The blade moves on rollers fixed from the top. Of the minuses, one can single out not the best sound insulation.|
Diagram of a structure with an upper movement mechanism
Prices for popular sliding door models
What are the mounting options?
Depending on the type of construction, the following installation methods are distinguished:
- With two guides. They are fixed on the ceiling to a wooden beam (which is pre-installed there) and from below. Thus, the web is securely fixed, so that it moves smoothly and without obstacles. Of the shortcomings, it is possible to single out only the fact that for the lower profile in the floor, you will have to make a recess in advance using the chasing method. If it is not cut into the floor, then the structure will look unsightly and the profile itself will quickly become unusable. In addition, dirt often accumulates in it.
Doors with two guides
- With one guide rail. For canvases of this type, special fasteners are provided. They are installed in the opening and move along the profile that is on top. An additional rail is not installed from below, because usually such doors have a small mass.
Materials for the manufacture of sliding doors
The reliability of the structure will also depend on the quality of the materials from which it is made, therefore, special attention should be paid to this point.
The sliding system is a mechanism that consists of guides, rails and rollers. It can be made from various materials:
- Steel. It is these robust mechanisms that are best suited for installing heavy interior doors. They securely fix the canvas, do not deform under load. The only drawback is noticeable noise when the doors move.
- Aluminum. Guides made of this metal should be chosen only if you plan to install a weightless canvas. One of the advantages of this mechanism is the silent movement of the canvases.
- Plastic. A mechanism made of this material is used only for simple hinged doors.
It is recommended to use only strong, steel rails
Note! An equally important point is the choice of material for the canvas itself. In this case, the purpose of the structure will be of great importance.
Prices for various types of sliding door rails
Sliding door runners
Table 3. The most popular materials for making a door leaf.
|Sliding doors are usually made from natural solid wood, which are best suited for a classic interior. It should be borne in mind that the canvas will have a large mass, therefore, the fasteners should be as strong as possible. In addition, in the case of self-production of a door from natural wood, it is necessary to take care of protecting the structure from fungus using special processing.|
MDF or chipboard
|Such materials are often used for the manufacture of doors, because they are much cheaper than natural wood, but at the same time they have good resistance to temperature changes and humidity. Nevertheless, it should be noted that MDF is much easier to saw - it is from such material that a structure of any shape can be cut ... In addition, it is safe from the point of view of ecology compared to chipboard. Most often, craftsmen prefer to choose laminated canvases, because such a door does not need to be primed, painted. Chipboard is categorically not recommended to be used for sliding doors of a children's room, because this material contains poisonous synthetic resins.|
|In this case, we are not talking about standard glass, but a special organic material that is resistant to mechanical damage. Such doors have an unusual appearance - they can be matte, glossy, with or without various patterns. Of course, such a canvas rather serves as a decoration rather than protects against noise or prying eyes. An excellent replacement for a glass structure is polycarbonate canvases. This material also has an unusual appearance, while it is quite durable. Another obvious advantage of polycarbonate is considered a huge variety of colors.|
Glass doors are often used by designers to create respectable interiors.
If there is a desire and opportunity, you can combine the listed materials. Some craftsmen prefer to install glass or mirrors in wooden doors.
An important point! In the work, it is important to use only high-quality material, otherwise the door leaf may deform. This happens especially often in the presence of poor processing and drying of natural wood.
Prices for various types of MDF panels
Making a sliding door
Even a novice master can handle a simple option of a sliding structure. We will consider the main stages of manufacturing a sliding door.
Before starting installation, you must prepare all materials and tools
Prices for popular models of screwdrivers
Materials and tools
In the process of work, we need the following devices:
- electric drill, screwdriver;
- electric jigsaw;
- building level;
- screwdriwer set;
- simple pencil and ruler.
In addition, you will need to prepare materials:
- chipboard sheets for the door leaf;
- guide rails, rollers, accessories;
- bars with a cross section of 5 × 5 centimeters;
- decorative accessories;
- self-tapping screws.
Calculations and drawings
It is recommended to draw up a drawing of the door leaf with dimensions. To do this, we need to first measure the doorway (it is necessary to take into account the distance to the ceiling in order to determine the method of installing the compartment doors). In addition, the distance from the opening to the corners should be taken into account, because it is not enough in all cases for the sash to move freely.
If you decide to install the box above the doorway, then first of all you need to take into account the thickness of the floors - if there are too curved walls, the measurements may not coincide, so they will have to be rechecked several times. Also, make sure the floor is level and not sloped.
This is how the measurement scheme looks like
According to the standard, the canvases have the following dimensions:
- width - from 40 to 90 centimeters;
- height - 275 centimeters.
When making a door yourself, do not make it too large, because the rollers may not withstand excessive load.
When choosing the classic version of compartment doors, it is necessary to make a canvas that will be 20-50 millimeters higher than the opening. In width, these flaps should be 20-30 millimeters larger on both sides.
The table shows the maximum dimensions of door leaves. The possibility of deviation from these values is not excluded, but only downward.
In the case of installing a cassette mechanism, it is necessary to cut out the canvases exactly to the size of the opening, because first the mechanism itself will be installed, and only then the niche.
Due to the combination of materials, the door leaf can be made weightless. Here are some of the most popular lightweight designs.
If you think that it will be easier to make a door leaf from wooden bars, then the following diagram of their connections will come in handy.
In this case, you should take a polished bar, which does not have to be further processed. In order to make the most accurate cuts, it is advisable to purchase specialized carpentry equipment.
Sliding door manufacturing process: step by step instructions
Step 1. First of all, we need to cut out a door leaf of the required size from a chipboard sheet. You can do this at home, but it is better to turn to professional furniture makers. Next, you have to process the edges. This is quite easy to do using an iron or hot air dryer, after which the edges can be cut off with a clerical knife.
Finished and untreated chipboard edges
An important point! During work it is necessary to use protective gloves for hands and special goggles for the eyes.
Step 2. Now you need to take a wooden bar and measure the desired length from it.
A mark should be put and sawed off with a jigsaw
Now, according to preliminary marking, we need to fix the beam above the doorway (in our case, it will be held on four long self-tapping screws)
Step 3. Now you need to measure the desired length of the rail.
You can cut the metal guide using a grinder
Now holes for self-tapping screws should be made in the guide
It is necessary to place it on a chair, holding it with one hand, drill through holes.
Step 4. Next, you need to screw the guide rail to the wooden block above the opening.
It is necessary to hold it with one hand and screw in the screws one by one
An important point! If the installation of the guide is without a bar, then it is necessary to fix it a few centimeters further from the wall, otherwise the door will touch the platbands when moving.
It is necessary to carefully check the correct position of the bar and the guide using a level, because the ability to freely open the door depends on this.
Step 5. Now you need to attach the metal fasteners from the set to the door leaf.
Attach the suspension mounts for the rollers with self-tapping screws
Step 6. Now it is necessary to mark the place of attachment of the door handle.
It is important not to make a mistake in the calculations and put marks on all sides
Now you should make holes with a drill along the marking lines
This is necessary in order to place the jigsaw blade there and cut out a recess for the handle attachment.
The hole should also be cut carefully, moving exactly along the marked lines.
Tips for choosing a jigsaw
Here it is better not to rush and, if necessary, make a few more holes with a drill on the other side.
The door handle fastener should be installed in the resulting hole, after which it will already be necessary to insert the door handle itself
Step 7. The next step is to insert the rollers into the top guide.
You need to insert two rollers into the guide
Now you need to screw the door lock from the bottom
The groove in the door leaf must be made using a grinder and a special circle.
Step 8. Next, you need to hang the door leaf.
Using the screws located on the rollers, set the optimum level for the web, after which it can be fixed with nuts
Next, you need to insert the clips into the guide and wrap them up - this will be needed so that the door does not go beyond the rail
Step 9. The fasteners will need to be closed with a decorative finish in the color of the door leaf.
First, you need to measure the exact length of the addition, and then it will need to be cut with a jigsaw to size
You can attach the complement to small nails with decorative caps. It is important to fix it carefully on both sides. Now we need to mark and cut off the side extensions for our door. Further, it remains only to establish them according to the same principle.
Upon completion of all work, it is necessary to check the functionality of the structure - the door should move smoothly along the guide without any obstacles.
Video - A sliding door from a conventional one. Do-it-yourself compartment door
This is the easiest option for making a sliding structure at home, which is suitable for beginners. If desired, you can install the lower guide with rollers. In this case, it will be necessary to make a recess according to its dimensions in the floor. It should be noted that this is a more modern version, because such a mechanism functions silently.
An important point! In this case, when hanging the door, the door leaf is first brought into the lower guide, and then into the upper one.
Advantages and disadvantages of sliding doors
Before starting the manufacture of sliding doors, it is necessary to carefully study all the advantages and disadvantages of such structures. It should be borne in mind that sliding doors are also not suitable in all cases.
Interior sliding doors can be incredibly aesthetic
The following advantages of compartment doors should be highlighted:
- such doors, in comparison with any swing models, take up minimal space;
- you can open and close the canvases without much effort, even a child can handle such actions;
- even if there is a draft in the room, the door will definitely not slam shut and will not open from it;
- this is the best way to divide a room into several zones, because glass canvases are often used as decorative partitions;
- some door designs do not provide for a threshold, so this option is suitable if disabled or elderly people live in the apartment;
- the design is perfect for any room, including a bathroom, kitchen, bedroom;
- if additional funds are available, an automatic door opening mechanism can be installed.
Installation of such a structure allows you to visually expand the wall.
Nevertheless, it is necessary to note the disadvantages due to which some people refuse to install interior sliding doors:
- if the canvas moves along the wall, then it is impossible to put furniture near it (it turns out that the structure conceals useful space);
- often there is poor sound insulation from extraneous sounds - this is due to the fact that gaps remain between the canvas and the box;
- because of such doors, the heat remains worse in the room;
- the cost of installing sliding doors will be significantly higher compared to the standard version;
- in the case of buying budget components, the door may fail in a few months;
- if you are going to install compartment doors with two sashes, then it will be more difficult to cope with such a process, because these parts should be perfectly matched to each other, so you will have to involve a professional master in the work.
Video - Installation of sliding doors in thin ceilings
Only in the case of correct assembly will you be able to appreciate the convenience of using sliding doors, therefore, when installing yourself, you need to carefully take measurements. Even minor deviations will lead to the structure not functioning correctly. You need to carry out the work slowly and carefully, then the result will definitely delight all households.
In addition, you can find out how to make a sliding door with your own hands by reading our article.